Your azelaic acid product FAQs, answered:

What is azelaic acid?

According to Dr Natalya Grigorovich, dermatologist at ALTA Medispa: “Azelaic acid is a lab-made version of a substance that naturally occurs in grains like barley and rye.”

She adds: “In skincare, it’s a versatile ingredient because it works on several concerns at once, calming inflammation, tackling the bacteria linked to breakouts, smoothing uneven texture and helping to fade dark spots and hyperpigmentaion. It’s often described as a gentle multitasker that can support clearer, calmer, and more even-looking skin.”

Who is azelaic acid best for?

“It’s a great option if you’re dealing with acne, rosacea or pigmentation. People with sensitive skin often find it easier to tolerate than stronger active ingredients, which makes it especially useful if your skin reacts easily. It’s also recommended for darker skin tones, as it helps reduce the risk of post-breakout pigmentation that can stick around longer.” – Dr Natalya Grigorovich.

How should you incorporate azelaic acid into your skincare routine?

If you’ve worked hard perfecting your skincare routine overtime, it can be tricky adding a new product in – and knowing when to use it. Luckily, Jolanta Rusakoviene, advanced aesthetic nurse and founder of SkinVital Clinic is here to help.

Jolanta added: “You’d usually apply it after cleansing and before moisturiser. Start with a small amount once a day and see how your skin responds – if it feels comfortable, you can build up to twice daily. It can be used in the morning or evening; some people like it in the morning to help with redness throughout the day. If you use it in the morning, always follow with SPF. Consistency is key to seeing results.”

Which percentage of azelaic acid is best?

According to Dr Aliaa Ahmed, aesthetic doctor at Harley Street Dermal, “For overall brightening and mild breakouts, 10% is a good place to start and is widely available in over the counter products.” Ahmed adds: The lowest available concentration is 5% which is suitable for sensitive skin or very mild pigmentation. Prescription strengths of 15–20% are the most to effective for acne and rosacea, but those are best used under professional guidance.”

Who should not use azelaic acid?

Dr Aliaa Ahmed said: “Azelaic acid is considered safe for most people and is one of the few topical agents shown to be safe during pregnancy and breastfeeding. Caution is mainly needed in people with a weakened skin barrier such as those with very dry, sensitive, or eczema-prone skin, who may experience irritation. If you notice burning, stinging or peeling, it’s a sign to ease off and get professional advice before continuing.”

What cannot be paired with azelaic acid?

According to aesthetic doctor Aliaa Ahmed, “Azelaic acid is one of the most versatile actives which is why it is highly recommended by a lot of skin specialists , but combining it with other potent exfoliants (like glycolic, lactic, or salicylic acid) or high-strength retinoids in the same routine can increase the risk of irritation.”

Ahmed adds: “Both can still be part of your regimen but just avoid layering them at the same time. A simple strategy is to alternate use, for example azelaic acid in the morning, retinoids at night, or on different days. This way you maximize benefits while protecting your skin barrier.”