There are many striking antique Jewels coming up for Auction this month, with the Jewels of Gladys Vanderbilt, Countess Széchenyi among the spectacular Royal and Noble Jewels going on Auction at Phillips in Geneva next week!
Phillips Geneva Jewels | 10 November 2025
Pearl and Diamond Tiara
Estimate: CHF 14,000 – 19,000
Property of a Lady
A natural Pearl and Diamond Tiara, early 20th century, of Greek key motif, set with a drop-shaped natural pearl, embellished with circular- and rose-cut diamonds, in a fitted case stamped F Miller Sohn.
Sapphire and Diamond Tiara
Estimate: CHF 200,000 – 280,000
An important Sapphire and Diamond Tiara/Crown/Necklace Combination, second half of the 19th century, of floral design, set with octagonal- and cushion-shaped sapphires, circular-cut and cushion-shaped diamonds, central part detachable and could convert into a tiara, as well as a crown.
Nature has long captivated the imagination of artists, its boundless beauty inspiring some of the most enduring creations of the 19th century. Jewellers sought to embody the living world in precious materials and vibrant enamels, transforming nature into their muse. This trend, a continuation of earlier fashions, was revitalised by the growing interest in botany during the 19th century and translated into delicate jewels that realistically depicted foliage, sprays of flowers, branches, blossoms— the thriving radiance of the natural world, emerging in parallel with the Romantic movement of the early 19th century.
The jewellery motifs reflected the spirit of Romanticism and were rich with symbolism, signifying eternal love, fidelity, remembrance, and even mourning. The language of flowers offered poetic souls a way to express their sentiments through floral design: forget-me-nots proclaimed everlasting love; ivy promised unbreakable friendship; and lily of the valley spoke of renewal and the return of happiness.
As these symbolic ornaments flourished, so too did the ingenuity of design. Jewellers created convertible pieces allowing smaller elements to be detached and worn separately—as hairpins or brooches adorning the bodice of a dress. Diamond brooches were often mounted en tremblant, their flowerheads set on fine springs that quivered with each movement, bringing nature’s exuberance to life in glittering form. A delicate necklace worn by day could be transformed into a magnificent tiara—or better yet, a crown—by night. Such jewels, designed with special fittings, further suggest noble or even royal provenance, as exemplified by lot number 355 offered in our sale. The naturalistic approach to design remained popular throughout the 19th century, capturing nature’s enduring beauty and timeless charm, and forging an unbreakable bond between jewel and wearer—creations that continue to inspire the same admiration today.
Cartier Ruby and Diamond Bracelet, Earrings and Brooch
Estimate: CHF 38,000 – 65,000
Property of a Lady
A Cartier Ruby and Diamond Bracelet, circa 1904, a pair of Earrings and a Brooch, of garland, floral and foliate design, set throughout with circular- and rose-cut diamonds, embellished with calibré-cut rubies.
Diamond and Ruby Brooch
Estimate: CHF 22,000 – 30,000
A Diamond and Ruby Brooch of garland design, set throughout with circular- and single-cut diamonds, with calibré-cut ruby accents, supporting a pear shaped-diamond.
Schlumberger Ruby, Sapphire and Diamond ‘Plumes’ Necklace
Estimate: CHF240,000 – 400,000
Formerly in the collection of Fiona Campbell-Walter, Baroness Thyssen-Bornemisza
A Schlumberger Ruby, Sapphire and Diamond ‘Plumes’ Necklace, circa 1960, of winged design, set throughout with brilliant-, single-cut and baguette diamonds, highlighted with pear-shaped rubies, circular- and step-cut sapphires, formerly in the collection of Fiona Campbell-Walter, Baroness Thyssen-Bornemisza.
Cartier Gold, Ruby and Diamond Cigarette Case
Estimate: CHF 6,000-9,500
From the Collection of Gladys Moore Vanderbilt, Countess Széchényi
A Cartier Gold, Ruby and Diamond Cigarette Case, of ribbed bicolour gold design, applied with a monogram ‘GV’ for Gladys Vanderbilt, set with calibré-cut rubies and single-cut diamonds, the thumbpiece set with a cabochon ruby.
From the Collection of Gladys Moore Vanderbilt, Countess Széchényi (1886-1965),
Then to Countess Gladys Széchényi (1913-1978), who married Christopher Finch Hatton, 15th Earl of Winchilsea and 10th Earl of Nottingham (1911-1950),
Thence by descent to the present owners.
Cartier Gold, Ruby and Diamond Wristwatch
Estimate: CHF 2,200-4,000
From the Collection of Gladys Moore Vanderbilt, Countess Széchényi
A Cartier Gold, Ruby and Diamond Wristwatch, of mechanical movement, cream circular dial, Arabic numerals at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o’clock, blued-steel hands, decorated with single- and circular-cut diamonds and calibré-cut rubies, the flexible bracelet of serpent style chain.
From the Collection of Gladys Moore Vanderbilt, Countess Széchényi (1886-1965),
Then to Countess Gladys Széchényi (1913-1978), who married Christopher Finch Hatton, 15th Earl of Winchilsea and 10th Earl of Nottingham (1911-1950),
Thence by descent to the present owners.
Cartier Traveling Clock
Estimate: CHF 4,000-6,000
From the Collection of Gladys Moore Vanderbilt, Countess Széchényi
A Cartier Traveling Clock with a charming folding travelling clock with an 8-day mechanical movement, the circular white enamel dial marked ‘8-Days’ with Arabic numerals and blued-steel hands, housed in a gold case, the hinged cover set with a white enamel finely monogrammed ‘G.S.’ for Gladys Vanderbilt (1886–1965), later Countess Széchényi, the interior further inscribed ‘From D.S. Xmas 1913’.
Presented as a Christmas gift in 1913 by Count Dénes “Dionys” Széchényi (1866–1934), eldest brother of Count László Széchényi (1879–1938), to his sister-in-law Gladys Moore Vanderbilt (1886–1965), Countess Széchényi.
Then to Countess Ferdinandine Széchényi (1923-2016), who married Count Alexander E. Eltz (1911-1977),
Thence by descent to the present owners.
Miniature Desk Clock
Estimate: CHF 1,500 – 2,200
From the Collection of Gladys Moore Vanderbilt, Countess Széchényi
A Miniature Desk Clock, early 20th century, of mechanical 8-days cylinder movement, circular white enamel dial, black Roman numerals, ornated with gilt hands, housed in a ribbed pattern silver case, the winder and setting pin concealed inside a hinged door at the back.
From the Collection of Gladys Moore Vanderbilt, Countess Széchényi (1886-1965),
Then to Countess Ferdinandine Széchényi (1923-2016), who married Count Alexander E. Eltz (1911-1977),
Thence by descent to the present owners.
Diamond Comb
Estimate: CHF 2,200-4,000
From the Collection of Gladys Moore Vanderbilt, Countess Széchényi
An early 20th century Diamond Hair Comb, of scroll and foliate design, set with a central pear-shaped diamond, further decorated with circular- and single-cut diamonds, attached to a horn comb later replaced, with circular-cut diamond screws.
From the Collection of Gladys Moore Vanderbilt, Countess Széchényi (1886-1965),
Thence by descent to the present owners.
Cartier Gold and Sapphire Compact and Gold Lighter
Estimate: CHF2,200 – 4,000
From the Collection of Gladys Moore Vanderbilt, Countess Széchényi
A Cartier Gold, the cylinder shaped lighter with a pendant hoop at the top, and Sapphire Compact, the gold compact opening to reveal a mirror and two compartments, and a Cartier Gold Lighter, the thumb piece set with a cabochon sapphire.
From the Collection of Gladys Moore Vanderbilt, Countess Széchényi (1886-1965),
Then to Countess Ferdinandine Széchényi (1923-2016), who married Count Alexander E. Eltz (1911-1977),
Thence by descent to the present owners.
Gold and Sapphire Purse and a Ruby, Seed Pearl and Diamond Purse
Estimate: CHF 2,200 – 4,000
From the Collection of Gladys Moore Vanderbilt, Countess Széchényi
A Gold and Sapphire Purse and a Ruby, Seed Pearl and Diamond Purse, late 19th century, one of gold mesh design with a gold bead fringe, accented with calibré-cut sapphires, the other set at the front with circular-cut diamonds, accented with calibré-cut rubies, the thumbpiece set with seed pearls.
From the Collection of Gladys Moore Vanderbilt, Countess Széchényi (1886-1965),
Then to Countess Ferdinandine Széchényi (1923-2016), who married Count Alexander E. Eltz (1911-1977),
Thence by descent to the present owners.
Ruby, Diamond and Enamel Brooch
Estimate: CHF 300 – 500
From the Collection of Gladys Moore Vanderbilt, Countess Széchényi
A Ruby, Diamond and Enamel Brooch, first half of the 19th century, designed as a bow, set with an oval ruby, surrounded by cushion-shaped and circular-cut diamonds, applied with white enamel and inscribed ‘L’amour en fait le lien’, suspending a detachable heart decorated with similarly-cut diamonds and an oval ruby.
From the Collection of Gladys Moore Vanderbilt, Countess Széchényi (1886-1965),
Then to Countess Ferdinandine Széchényi (1923-2016), who married Count Alexander E. Eltz (1911-1977),
Thence by descent to the present owners.
Diamond Brooches
Estimate: CHF 500 – 800
From the Collection of Gladys Moore Vanderbilt, Countess Széchényi
A pair of Diamond Brooches, each set with circular- and single-cut diamonds.
From the Collection of Gladys Moore Vanderbilt, Countess Széchényi (1886-1965),
Then to Countess Ferdinandine Széchényi (1923-2016), who married Count Alexander E. Eltz (1911-1977),
Thence by descent to the present owners.
Diamond and Emerald Brooch
Estimate: CHF 4,000-6,000
From the Collection of Gladys Moore Vanderbilt, Countess Széchényi
A late 19th century Diamond and Emerald Brooch, designed as a triple bow, set throughout with cushion-shaped and circular-cut diamonds, embellished with step-cut and oval emeralds.
From the Collection of Gladys Moore Vanderbilt, Countess Széchényi (1886-1965),
Then to Countess Ferdinandine Széchényi (1923-2016), who married Count Alexander E. Eltz (1911-1977),
Thence by descent to the present owners.
Cartier Diamond Brooch
Estimate: CHF 80,000-120,000
From the Collection of Gladys Moore Vanderbilt, Countess Széchényi
A Cartier Diamond Brooch, designed as a lily spray, set with a pear-shaped diamond weighing 4.55 carats, embellished with circular- and rose-cut diamonds, unsigned, French maker’s mark, with a mechanism allowing the diamond to be detached and worn at the centre of a three-strand cultured pearl necklace.
Given by Alice Gwynne Vanderbilt to her daughter, Gladys Vanderbilt, on the occasion of her marriage to Count László Széchényi in 1908,
Then to Countess Gladys Széchényi (1913-1978), who married Christopher Finch Hatton, 15th Earl of Winchilsea and 10th Earl of Nottingham (1911-1950),
Thence by descent to the present owners.
The diamond brooch was originally part of a tiara given by Alice Gwynne Vanderbilt to her daughter, Gladys Vanderbilt, on the occasion of her marriage to Count Laszló Széchenyi in 1908. The Brooch could be detached from the Tiara to be worn on its own and the main stones could be replaced by amethysts or diamonds.
Among the most outstanding examples is the Cartier Diamond Brooch, originally part of a diamond tiara from the Belle Epoque, designed as eight lily sprays and adorned with interchangeable pear-shaped amethysts and similarly shaped diamonds. Commissioned by Alice Vanderbilt, née Gwynne, for her daughter Gladys Vanderbilt upon her marriage to Count László Széchényi in 1908, the tiara was eventually dismantled, and the present brooch set with an old-cut pear-shaped diamond weighing 4.55 carats stands as a surviving symbol of social power, familial ambition, and transatlantic prestige. Gladys, the youngest daughter of Cornelius Vanderbilt II, represented the last generation of Gilded Age heiresses whose marriages bridged American wealth and European nobility.
Countess Széchenyi wore the magnificent Cartier Tiara set with diamonds and a massive 62-carat Diamond Pendant to the Coronation of Emperor Charles I of Austria as King of Hungary in 1916.
The Vanderbilt Sapphire
Estimate: CHF 800,000-1,200,000
From the Collection of Gladys Moore Vanderbilt, Countess Széchényi
The Vanderbilt Sapphire by Tiffany & Co. set an exceptional Kashmir sugar loaf sapphire weighing 42.68 carats, mounted in a diamond-set brooch dating from the early 20th century.
The star of the collection is “The Vanderbilt Sapphire”, an exceptional sugarloaf Kashmir sapphire and diamond brooch weighing 42.68 carats, in illustrious ‘Royal Blue’ colour. Mounted by Tiffany & Co., this extraordinary gem is accompanied by certificates from AGL, SSEF, and Gübelin. It was originally gifted by Alice Gwynne Vanderbilt to her daughter Gladys Vanderbilt, Countess Széchényi. The brooch’s intricate openwork design embellished with old-cut diamonds typifies quintessential Belle Epoque refinement. More than a family heirloom, this jewel embodied the era’s artistic and social ambitions, pioneered by one of the greatest American dynasties.
Given by Alice Gwynne, Mrs Cornelius Vanderbilt II, to her daughter, Gladys Moore Vanderbilt, Countess Széchényi (1886-1965),
Thence by descent to the present owners.
Gladys Moore Vanderbilt grew up in the largest private house ever built in New York City, the Vanderbilt II family mansion on Fifth Avenue, and The Breakers in in Newport, Rhode Island, before she married Count László Széchenyi de Sárvár-Felsővidék in 1908. The couple, who had five daughters, maintained a Palace in Budapest until 1945, while the Count was the Hungarian Ambassador to the United States and also the Ambassador to the United Kingdom before his passing in 1938. Countess Széchenyi had inherited The Breakers and leased to the Preservation Society of Newport County after 1948, but she held an apartment until her death in 1965. Her fourth daughter, Countess Sylvia Szapáry, maintained a residence there until her passing in 1998.
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In 1912, several of the Countess’ jewels, to the value of $200,000, were stolen from the Palace in Budapest before being discovered in a motor car garage in the city, where they had been hidden, wrapped in a piece of newspaper behind a barrel. It has not been revealed if any of the jewels on sale were among those stolen jewels.
However, we do know that these jewels were inherited by her daughters, Countess Gladys Széchényi, who had married the 15th Earl of Winchilsea, and Countess Ferdinandine Széchényi, who married Count Alexander E. Eltz, and thence by family descent.
Benoît Repellin, said, “The Vanderbilt Family Jewels stand as the purest embodiment of Gilded Age elegance – pieces of extraordinary beauty, historical resonance, and fascinating provenance. We are deeply privileged to present these iconic creations at our Geneva Jewels Auction, which promises to capture the imagination of collectors worldwide. This comes at a time when the market is particularly enthusiastic for period jewels – Belle Epoque and early-20th-century masterpieces are in especially high demand – reflecting a broader appetite for rare signed and historically rich pieces.”
Today, pieces from the Vanderbilt collection are exceedingly rare and highly coveted by collectors, not only for their intrinsic beauty but for their unparalleled provenance. Each jewel is an icon of visionary patronage, epitomising timeless taste and an illustrious legacy. The twelve pieces included in The Geneva Jewels Auction: V give a unique opportunity for collectors to acquire a beautiful jewel that carries a part of history.
Sotheby’s Noble & Private Collections | 5 December 2024
Phillips Geneva Jewels | 11 November 2024
Christie’s Magnificent Jewels | 12 November 2024
Sotheby’s Royal & Noble Jewels | 13 November 2024
Sotheby’s Important Jewels | 16 November 2024
Christie’s Jewels | 20 November 2024
Girls of Great Britain and Ireland Tiara
Vladimir Tiara
Queen Alexandra’s Kokoshnik Tiara
Belgian Sapphire Tiara
Burmese Ruby Tiara
Brazilian Aquamarine Tiara
Queen Mary’s Fringe Tiara
Queen Mary’s Lover’s Knot Tiara
Queen Victoria’s Oriental Circlet Tiara
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