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How Does Retinol Work? Benefits and Rules of Use Explained By Experts

Retinoic acid (also known as Retin-A and Tretinoin)

This is the strongest retinoid prescribed by dermatologists for acne, pigmentation and signs of ageing. It is about 20 times more powerful than retinol because it doesn’t need to be converted by your cells to become retinoic acid – a process that makes other forms of vitamin A “less potent,” says cosmetic dermatologist Dr Sam Bunting.

“Retinoic acid goes inside skin cells and is immediately effective as it switches on retinoid receptor genes,” she adds. But its effectiveness also means it comes with side effects such as redness and peeling, which a doctor will need to manage.

Retinal/Retinaldehyde

Retinal delivers the same anti-ageing benefits as retinol but in a faster (up to 11 times) and less irritating way. Retinal is also the only form of vitamin A with antibacterial properties, making it perfect for oily or blemish-prone complexions.

Medik8 Crystal Retinal 3

Paula’s Choice Pro Retinaldehyde Dual-Retinoid Treatment

Beauty Pie Youthbomb Extreme Retinal Triple Renewal Serum

Retinol

The reason retinol is often used as a blanket term for retinoids is that it is the best-known and most commonly available, available in a variety of strengths and over-the-counter products. “It takes two steps for retinol to become converted to retinoic acid,” says Dr Bunting. “With each step you lose potency, so it’s a gentler animal compared to tretinoin.”

Although less potent than prescription retinoic acid, retinol is known to boost collagen production and even out skin tone. In general, if you’re using a retinol, you want to start off at between 0.1 and 0.2% strength and build up to 1% if your skin can tolerate it.

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The Ordinary Retinol Serum 0.2% in Squalane

n

    n

  • Retinoid concentration: 0.5%.
  • n

  • Form of retinol: Pure retinol.
  • n

  • Suitable for sensitive skin? Yes.
  • n

n

Why we love it: Sometimes simple is better. If you're looking for pure retinol without any other additional ingredients, this is the one for you. This water-free solution contains 0.2% pure retinol. However, high-strength pure retinol can still irritate your skin, so beginners and people with sensitive skin may be better off with more gentle and hydrating options instead.

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The Ordinary Retinol Serum 0.2% in Squalane

The Ordinary Retinol Serum 0.2% in Squalane

  • Retinoid concentration: 0.5%.
  • Form of retinol: Pure retinol.
  • Suitable for sensitive skin? Yes.

Why we love it: Sometimes simple is better. If you’re looking for pure retinol without any other additional ingredients, this is the one for you. This water-free solution contains 0.2% pure retinol. However, high-strength pure retinol can still irritate your skin, so beginners and people with sensitive skin may be better off with more gentle and hydrating options instead.

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L'Oréal Paris Pure Retinol Revitalift Laser Night Serum

n

    n

  • Retinoid concentration: 0.3%.
  • n

  • Form of retinol: Pure retinol.
  • n

  • Suitable for sensitive skin? Yes.
  • n

n

Why we love it: This powerful retinol serum is specially designed for mature skin to reduce the appearance of even the deepest wrinkles. Combining a high concentration of retinol with the hydrating effects of glycerin and hyaluronic acid, Revitalift is best paired with a night cream as part of your evening routine to achieve maximum effect.

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L’Oréal Paris Pure Retinol Revitalift Laser Night Serum

L’Oréal Paris Pure Retinol Revitalift Laser Night Serum

  • Retinoid concentration: 0.3%.
  • Form of retinol: Pure retinol.
  • Suitable for sensitive skin? Yes.

Why we love it: This powerful retinol serum is specially designed for mature skin to reduce the appearance of even the deepest wrinkles. Combining a high concentration of retinol with the hydrating effects of glycerin and hyaluronic acid, Revitalift is best paired with a night cream as part of your evening routine to achieve maximum effect.

Drunk Elephant A-Passioni Retinol Cream

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La Roche-Posay Retinol B3 Serum

n

    n

  • Retinoid concentration: 0.3%.
  • n

  • Form of retinol: Pure retinol.
  • n

  • Suitable for sensitive skin? Yes.
  • n

n

Why we love it: This night-time serum is suitable for all skin types, especially for those prone to sensitive skin. In addition to its gentle 0.3% retinol content, the serum complex also includes other ingredients, such as vitamin B3 and glycerin, to keep your skin nourished and hydrated.

n

Tester: Elle Turner, GLAMOUR's Senior Beauty Editor.

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La Roche-Posay Retinol B3 Serum

La Roche-Posay Retinol B3 Serum

  • Retinoid concentration: 0.3%.
  • Form of retinol: Pure retinol.
  • Suitable for sensitive skin? Yes.

Why we love it: This night-time serum is suitable for all skin types, especially for those prone to sensitive skin. In addition to its gentle 0.3% retinol content, the serum complex also includes other ingredients, such as vitamin B3 and glycerin, to keep your skin nourished and hydrated.

Tester: Elle Turner, GLAMOUR’s Senior Beauty Editor.

Retinyl palmitate

A very mild retinoid, retinyl palmitate is ideal for those with sensitive skin or retinol beginners.

Sarah Chapman Overnight Facial

L’Oréal Paris Revitalift Day Cream

Granactive retinol or hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR for short)

This is the buzzy new retinol alternative that those with reactive or sensitive skin are leaning on. Despite being 10 times more potent than pure retinol, it’s more gentle because it doesn’t need to be converted by our skin cells in order to work. There is little to no irritation, but granactive retinoid still tackles multiple skin concerns, including acne, pigmentation, fine lines and rough texture.

“I remember the days of prescribing tretinoin and I would see patients tortured by it,” Dr Alexandrides says. “They would get dryness, scaling and they would give up using it. Granactive retinol is less inflammatory due to the chemical composition of the molecule.”

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111SKIN Black Diamond Retinol Oil

n

    n

  • Retinoid concentration: 2.5%.
  • n

  • Form of retinol: retinol and granactive retinoid blend.
  • n

  • Suitable for sensitive skin? Yes if introduced gradually.
  • n

n

Why we love it: It may be one of the most expensive products in this line-up, however, let us assure you that it's well worth the investment. Formulated with a 2.5% retinol and granactive retinoid blend, this clever face oil will minimise signs of ageing and brighten your complexion while visibly improving skin's texture over prolonged use.

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111SKIN Black Diamond Retinol Oil

111SKIN Black Diamond Retinol Oil

  • Retinoid concentration: 2.5%.
  • Form of retinol: retinol and granactive retinoid blend.
  • Suitable for sensitive skin? Yes if introduced gradually.

Why we love it: It may be one of the most expensive products in this line-up, however, let us assure you that it’s well worth the investment. Formulated with a 2.5% retinol and granactive retinoid blend, this clever face oil will minimise signs of ageing and brighten your complexion while visibly improving skin’s texture over prolonged use.

Elizabeth Arden Retinol and HPR Ceramide Rapid Skin Renewing Water Cream

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Trinny London Overnight Sensation

n

    n

  • Retinoid concentration: Not specified.
  • n

  • Form of retinol: Retinal and granactive retinoid.
  • n

  • Suitable for sensitive skin? Yes.
  • n

n

Why we love it: The aptly named Overnight Sensation by Trinny works wonders by reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles while you sleep. It's suitable for all skin types and even gentle enough not to cause any unwanted peeling, thanks to key ingredients such as retinal, bacillus ferment and vitamin F.

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Trinny London Overnight Sensation

Trinny London Overnight Sensation

  • Retinoid concentration: Not specified.
  • Form of retinol: Retinal and granactive retinoid.
  • Suitable for sensitive skin? Yes.

Why we love it: The aptly named Overnight Sensation by Trinny works wonders by reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles while you sleep. It’s suitable for all skin types and even gentle enough not to cause any unwanted peeling, thanks to key ingredients such as retinal, bacillus ferment and vitamin F.

When should you start using retinol?

While there is no set time to use retinoids, most dermatologists advise introducing the ingredient into your skincare routine in your mid-twenties through one of the best retinol serums, particularly if you suffer from breakouts or pigmentation.

If you’re late to the retinol party, that doesn’t mean you can’t get involved; all ages will see the benefits of retinol use to some degree.

Is it OK to use retinol every day?

If you’re wondering whether you can use retinol every day, the answer is yes – but with a few caveats. According to Dr Alexandrides, you need to gradually add it into your skincare regime in order to avoid unwanted side effects such as redness, flaking and sore skin.

“If you’ve never used retinol before, start by applying it once or twice a week and then build up the frequency to a level that you’re comfortable with, preferably every day or every other day,” he says, adding that consistency is key for achieving your skin goals.

LP Staff Writers

Writers at Lord’s Press come from a range of professional backgrounds, including history, diplomacy, heraldry, and public administration. Many publish anonymously or under initials—a practice that reflects the publication’s long-standing emphasis on discretion and editorial objectivity. While they bring expertise in European nobility, protocol, and archival research, their role is not to opine, but to document. Their focus remains on accuracy, historical integrity, and the preservation of events and individuals whose significance might otherwise go unrecorded.

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