FAQs:

What is salicylic acid?

Let’s start with the basics. “Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy (BHA) exfoliating acid often found in products targeting acne thanks to its unique blend of anti-bacterial, decongestive and anti-inflammatory properties,” explains Jennifer Rock, CEO and founder of Skingredients and The Skin Nerd. “As a BHA, it has the ability to penetrate deep into the pores and dissolve the sebum and dead skin cells that combine to form breakouts.”

Interestingly, the ingredient “can be made synthetically, but originally was derived from willow bark and is actually a precursor to aspirin,” adds Dr Cristina Psomadakis, dermatologist and Klira ambassador.

What else can salicylic acid treat other than acne?

While salicylic acid is certainly a popular ingredient in spot and acne treatments, there are plenty of other ways that it can also benefit the skin. “Salicylic acid essentially reduces the skin’s oil production,” explains Dr Alexis Granite, CeraVe consultant dermatologist — so, it’s basically just a great choice in general for oily or combination skin types.

Essentially, if you experience any kind of blackheads, whiteheads, or pimples, salicylic acid is the kind of exfoliating ingredient that’ll help unclog your pores of any impurities. By removing dead skin cells through exfoliation, it reveals smoother and more even skin underneath — while also helping to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and fade dark spots and scars.

Not just for the face, salicylic acid is also commonly used in body washes and lotions to help treat common skin conditions like keratosis pilaris, and soothe and prevent ingrown hairs.

Do dermatologists recommend salicylic acid cleanser?

Yes, provided you have oily, acne- or congestion-prone skin. “I am a huge fan of them,” says Dr Mahto. “If you have blackheads (open comedones) or whiteheads, a salicylic acid cleanser should be your first line of defence. It can also be helpful for some dry skin conditions; however, those with sensitive or rosacea-prone skin should avoid it.”

Whatever your skin type, it’s important to steer clear of formulas loaded with drying alcohols. As salicylic acid can already be drying, pairing it with a stripping base may do more harm than good, compromising the skin barrier and leading to further irritation.

Is it okay to use a salicylic acid cleanser every day?

As with most active ingredients, it really depends on your skin type and how it reacts. Definitely start incorporating it very slowly — perhaps even patch testing before applying it to your face —before building it up or toning it down depending on how your skin responds. But generally, most people find that their skin ends up benefitting from daily use of a salicylic acid face wash.

In terms of when exactly you should us it during the day, Dr Kemi Fabusiwa explains that you can use the cleanser at night or in the morning for different benefits. “Using it in the morning can help to remove excess oil and impurities accumulated overnight, while using it before bed can help to cleanse the skin and remove makeup, dirt, and pollutants from the day.”

Is 1% or 2% salicylic acid better?

Again, it really depends on your skin type. If you’ve got more dry or sensitive skin, Dr Kemi recommends opting for lower concentrations of 0.5-1% to avoid any irritation. But most skin types will be able to tolerate closer to 2% — and this kind of higher concentration will be more effective at penetrating the pores.

Can you use salicylic acid in pregnancy?

The data shows that low concentrations of salicylic acid found in over-the-counter skincare (at up to 2 per cent strength) is likely safe in pregnancy, advises Dr Mahto. It’s probably best to avoid higher concentrations, however if you’re working with an expert, it’s up to you to make a personal choice. “For acne and congestion, 2% strength is usually the sweet spot anyway,” says Dr Mahto. “It is strong enough to be effective but generally well tolerated too.”

What are the benefits of using a cleanser with salicylic acid over another skincare product?

So, why should you use a cleanser with salicylic acid over something else like a serum? As Dr Alexis points out, the ingredient “should be used as preventative as well as targeted,” meaning a regular cleanse with salicylic can be just the ticket.

“Salicylic acid is best used in a wash-off product such as a cleanser as time spent in contact with skin is shorter and easily controlled by the user, reducing the risk of irritation,” adds Jennifer.

Are there any potential side effects that could come from using a salicylic cleanser?

The main one? Dryness. “Salicylic acid can be drying, so if you have naturally drier or more mature skin, this is not the best acid ingredient for you. If your skin is very sensitive or inflamed, salicylic acid can aggravate the situation, so it should be avoided in people with eczema or rosacea,” says Dr Cristina.

The number one thing to remember when using salicylic acid (or any acids or retinol) however, is that they can make your skin more sensitive to the sun, meaning you should always wear an SPF daily (after any face toners, serums and moisturisers), come rain or shine, whether you’re inside or out.