There are many striking antique Jewels coming up for Auction this month, with a magnificent Pearl and Diamond Brooch from Empress Caroline Augusta of Austria is among the magnificent Royal and Noble Jewels on Auction at the Christie’s ‘Joaillerie Paris’ Sale in Paris tomorrow!
Pearl and Diamond Brooch
Estimate: EUR 60,000 – EUR 80,000
Originating from Empress Caroline Augusta of Austria
A Pearl and Diamond Brooch with old and rose-cut diamonds, drop-shaped natural pearls, 18k white and yellow gold (French customs mark), circa 1830. The Brooch is accompanied by a period gold and mother-of-pearl book, serving as an inventory and detailing the provenance and dating of the present brooch:
“Main small jewels with provenance or historical interest.
A diamond rivière necklace left to me by the Princess of Salerno, which came from her mother-in-law, Empress Caroline, fourth wife of her father, Emperor Francis I of Austria.
A diamond plaque with matching pairs of pearls, same provenance as the necklace”.
This jewel is believed to have belonged to Empress Caroline Augusta of Bavaria (1792–1873), the fourth wife of Emperor Francis I of Austria (1768–1835), who reigned as Emperor of Austria from 1804 until his death in 1835. Caroline Augusta married the Emperor in 1816. Although she had no children of her own, she became the stepmother to the Emperor’s children from his previous marriages.
According to a contemporary inventory, the jewel—described as a diamond plaque with pairs of pearls—was bequeathed by the Princess of Salerno, who inherited it from her mother-in-law, Empress Caroline.
The title Princess of Salerno could plausibly refer to Marie Thérèse of Austria (1816–1867), daughter of Emperor Francis I and thus Caroline Augusta’s stepdaughter. In 1837, Marie Thérèse married Ferdinand II of the Two Sicilies, and her sister Marie Caroline of Austria married Leopold, Prince of Salerno. It is therefore possible that the jewel passed through the Austro-Neapolitan branch of the Habsburg family by way of dynastic alliance.
Probable Dating and Style
Given that Caroline Augusta became Empress in 1816, and the jewel was subsequently passed to her stepdaughter, the Princess of Salerno, it is likely that this piece was created between 1816 and the 1830s–1840s.
Stylistically, the jewel corresponds to the Empire or early Biedermeier period in Austria.
Malachite and Pearl Parure
Estimate: EUR 30,000 – EUR 50,000
A Malachite and Pearl Parure comprising a necklace, two bracelets and a pair of earrings with malachite cameos depicting putti, elegant men and women of Ancient Rome, round and rounded seed pearls, filigree 18k yellow gold (French and French customs marks), with a fitted case, circa 1810.
This delicate day parure bears striking similarities to the sets created by jewellers for the Imperial Court, embodying the aesthetic of the Empire style under Napoleon I.
Comparable examples are known, such as the malachite and pearl cameo parure preserved in the collections of the Fondation Napoléon. Characteristic of the Empire style, this parure alternates finely chiselled gold and pearl palmettes with malachite cameos depicting the gods of Olympus. It is an exceptionally rare example of a complete set that has survived intact, including a tiara, hairpins, necklace, brooch, pendant, bracelets, and belt.
Our parure, also complete, consists of a pair of pendant earrings, a medallion necklace, and a pair of bracelets. It is set with 56 malachite cameos, each framed in gold with twisted borders. The cameos, carved in the antique style, depict busts and figures from Greco-Roman mythology, including Venus, goddess of Love and Beauty, surrounded by small cameos featuring putti in various activities. On the necklace, the cameos are interspersed with delicate openwork foliate motifs in gold, adorned with small pearls; on the bracelets, they are punctuated with two pearls. The entire set is preserved in its original heart-shaped case.
Amethyst and Diamond Parure
Estimate: EUR 10,000 – EUR 15,000
A Amethyst and Diamond Parure comprising a necklace, a brooch transformable into a pendant and a bracelet, with pear, oval-shaped and round amethysts, seed pearls, rose-cut diamonds, 18k rose and yellow gold (French customs marks) and silver, circa 1880.
Diamond Brooch
Estimate: EUR 10,000 – EUR 15,000
Diamond Brooch with old and rose-cut diamonds, 18k yellow gold (French customs mark) and silver, circa 1880
Emerald and Diamond Pendant
Estimate: EUR 15,000 – EUR 20,000
Emerald and Diamond Pendant with an oval cameo emerald, black enamel, old-cut diamonds, 18k white gold and silver (French custom marks), circa 1850.
Diamond and Pearl Necklace
Estimate: EUR 10,000 – EUR 15,000
A Diamond and Pearl Necklace with old and rose-cut diamonds, button-shaped natural pearls and baroque-shaped seed pearls, 18k yellow gold and platinum (French customs mark), circa 1900.
Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond Brooch
Estimate: EUR 10,000 – EUR 15,000
A Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond Brooch with round, emerald and rectangular diamonds, platinum (French mark), signed Van Cleef & Arpels, numbered, circa 1925
Diamond Brooch
Estimate: EUR 8,000 – EUR 12,000
A Diamond Brooch with old-cut diamonds, 14k white gold (French customs mark) and silver, circa 1880.
Emerald and Diamond Brooch
Estimate: EUR 10,000 – EUR 15,000
An Emerald and Diamond Brooch with pear-shaped emeralds, brilliant-cut and rectangular diamonds.
Pearl and Diamond Brooch
Estimate: EUR 80,000 – EUR 120,000
A Pearl and Diamond Brooch with drop-shaped natural pearls, rose-cut diamonds, 18k yellow gold (French mark) and silver, French maker’s mark, circa 1850, the pin can be removed to insert two hairpin elements.
Diamond Pendant
Estimate: EUR 20,000 – EUR 30,000
A Diamond Pendant with old and rose-cut diamonds, 18k yellow gold and platinum (French customs marks), circa 1880.
Diamond Rivère
Estimate: EUR 30,000 – EUR 50,000
A Diamond Rivère with old-cut diamonds, platinum (French customs mark), circa 1880.
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