What are the different types of peptides?

Most formulas feature a combination of peptides, so you don’t necessarily need to worry about how each functions, but it is worth familiarising yourself with the different types of peptides when looking at ingredients.

Signal peptides, like Matrixyl 3000, work by sending a message to the cells to boost production of proteins like collagen and elastin, which ultimately helps firm the skin. These are the most commonly used peptides in skincare. There’s also neurotransmitter cells like argireline, which Dr. Zeichner says help relax muscles and improve the appearance of wrinkles, smoothing the skin.

Meanwhile, he says carrier peptides (which include copper peptides) help to strengthen the barrier and stimulate collagen by delivering minerals to the skin. They function similarly to signal peptides in that they improve skin firmness and soften texture. Finally, there’s growth factor peptides to help with wound healing and skin regeneration. They also encourage collagen production (noticing a theme here?), making them particularly adept at reducing the appearance of fine lines.

Do peptide serums actually work?

With regular use, peptide serums are a worthy investment. “Peptides serums can help promote collagen synthesis which improves skin texture, reduces the appearance of wrinkles, and enhances skin tone,” Tiffany Libby, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in NYC, explains. Think of peptides as tiny little messengers that send signals to other cells to produce more collagen and elastin.

“Peptides also have hygroscopic properties, meaning they can attract and retain water, which helps hydrate skin and improve moisture retention.” That means peptides not only help immediately quench thirsty skin, but they also help the skin hold onto that moisture for longer.Peptides also help with overall skin repair and strengthen the skin barrier, which Dr. Engelman, a board-certified dermatologist says can help reduce moisture loss and contribute to healthier, more radiant skin. But, like any other product, those effects only work with regular continued use.

TLDR: Peptides help strengthen your skin by sending signals to other cells, while they work to improve hydration by drawing in and retaining water. All of this ultimately helps skin be more resilient and appear more radiant.

What other skincare ingredients pair well with peptides?

According to Dr. Zeichner, peptides generally play nice with other ingredients and skin care products. While Dr. Castilla, a board-certified dermatologist, says they tend to work best as part of a well-rounded skincare routine that includes daily face sunscreen and an antioxidant like one of the best vitamin C serums. Dr. Engelman also suggests pairing peptides with ingredients that help enhance their benefits, like vitamin C, niacinamide, and the best hyaluronic acid serum formulations.

She also recommends layering a peptide serum with a good face moisturiser that has ceramides in it to help lock in moisture and hydration, and strengthen the skin barrier. That being said, the dermatologists we spoke to warned against mixing peptides with harsh exfoliants like AHAs and BHAs, which may counteract the benefits of peptides. You can, however, pair peptides with retinol— in fact, they can help mitigate some of the irritation that comes with retinol use.

For more skincare-related content, shop our edit of the best hydrating serums for dry skin, ceramide serums to boost your delicate skin barrier, and the best retinol serums to elevate your nighttime routine.