Is bakuchiol here to kick retinol off its pedestal? As someone who has sensitive skin, I think so. I’ve never really seen eye-to-eye with retinol serums. Sure, they resurface and feel like they’re working — but very few formulas do so without leaving my skin dry, red and irritated. Since turning to bakuchiol serums and creams, I’ve experienced no such problems.
Through interviewing dermatologists, I’ve discovered that buzzy ingredient bakuchiol is a much gentler alternative to retinol – one that can help me smooth out my texture and firm up the skin without compromising my moisture barrier. “Bakuchiol is a hero ingredient in the South Korean beauty industry, thanks to its strong focus on skin barrier health and well-tolerated nature,” Dr. Shinny Cho, Korean consultant dermatologist at Future Care Medical told me.
“Bakuchiol has been shown to boost collagen production by stimulating receptors in the skin, improve skin texture, and fade pigmentation,” Dr. Christine Hall, K Beauty expert and GP in medical aesthetics at TakTouk Clinic added, “without the side effects that often come with retinoids.”
“What really sets it apart is the gentleness. People who struggle with the irritation, dryness or redness that comes with retinol have found it to be a wonderful alternative. It helps the skin feel firmer and smoother over time, but without the usual sensitivity or peeling,” Cho explains. And if that wasn’t enough, another major perk that wins bakuchiol extra points is that, unlike retinol, it can be used throughout pregnancy and breastfeeding (although it’s always a good idea to triple-check the label for any other actives).
Below, I’ve put together a curated edit of the best face serums and moisturisers that I’ve personally tested.
Meet the experts:
How I tested the best bakuchiol serums and creams:
As a journalist with a half a decades’ worth of experience testing beauty products for GLAMOUR, Marie Claire, Vogue and Cosmopolitan), I’ve tried just about every skincare ingredient worth shouting about. Bakuchiol included. And my approach to testing is not as simple as you’d think.
I always ensure to test a serum or a moisturiser for at least four-six weeks before considering recommending it to readers. From carefully assessing the ingredient lists to comparing the consistencies, fragrance and price points, I’m very selective when it comes to curating my edit, especially when observing the actual benefits. For this round-up in particular, I’ve reviewed formulas from both Korean and Western skincare brands. And to ensure a fair verdict, I also made sure not to make any other drastic changes to my skincare regimen (including any supplements too).
What is bakuchiol and what are its benefits?
“Bakuchiol is a natural compound extracted from the seeds of the Psoralea corylifolia plant that’s native to Asia and has been used in traditional medicine for centuries,” shares Dr. Hall.
According to Dr. Cho, “It has recently become popular in modern skincare as a gentler alternative to retinol.”
“It works by encouraging skin cell turnover and supporting collagen and elastin production, which over time, can lead to smoother, firmer, and brighter skin,” she explains.
“Because it’s also rich in antioxidants, bakuchiol helps defend the skin against free radicals and environmental stress, so it’s not just about ‘anti‑ageing’ but also about keeping the skin resilient and healthy,” Dr. Cho adds.
Why is bakuchiol so popular in K Beauty?
According to Dr. Hall, “The beauty industry in South Korea is known for its innovative, skin-loving products, and bakuchiol fits right in. The emphasis is always on gentle yet effective ingredients that don’t compromise the skin’s barrier, and this ingredient delivers just that.”
Thanks to its non-irritant yet barrier-loving nature, Dr. Hall also shares that “Bakuchiol feeds into the ‘glass skin’ trend in K Beauty – the desire for clear, glowing, and healthy skin while respecting the skin’s barrier.” You can shop more of the best Korean skincare products, including Korean serums, Korean eye creams and Korean face masks – as reviewed by GLAMOUR editors.
Which skin types and concerns would benefit most from bakuchiol?
“One of the reasons bakuchiol has gained such a following is its versatility. Most skin types can tolerate it well – even people with sensitive skin, eczema, or rosacea often find bakuchiol a welcome alternative to traditional retinoids because they don’t trigger the usual redness, dryness, or peeling,” says Dr. Cho.
Elsewhere, she explains that “Dry or mature skin will benefit from its collagen‑boosting and hydrating qualities, while those with uneven pigmentation will appreciate its ability to gently even out skin tone.”
“It also has mild anti‑inflammatory and antibacterial properties, which can be helpful if you’re prone to breakouts,” she adds.
Bakuchiol vs. retinol – what are the differences?
“Both bakuchiol and retinol are known for their powerful firming and skin-smoothing properties, but they differ significantly in how they affect the skin,” explains Dr. Hall.
“Retinol, a form of vitamin A, can be highly effective for promoting skin turnover, but it often comes with side effects like dryness, redness and increased sensitivity to sunlight,” she says. “It can take some time for the skin to adjust, and there’s often a ‘purging’ phase where breakouts can occur.” That said, Dr. Hall reiterates that “retinol really is the gold standard ingredient for which we have the most evidence to prove that it works.”
On the other hand, she explains that “Bakuchiol offers the benefits without the irritation.” According to Dr. Hall, the main difference is that “It’s non-photosensitising, meaning it can be used both day and night.”
However, she also mentions that “Bakuchiol works more slowly, so it may take longer to see noticeable results compared to retinol.”
“Bakuchiol is recommended for individuals with sensitive skin, or for those who have had negative experiences with retinol in the past. But if you’re looking for a more rapid, intensive treatment, retinol might be the better choice,” concludes Dr. Hall.
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