Nail polish used to be simpler. First, there was the traditional formula you could get from Boots, then came gels, acrylics and shellac. Next? BIAB nails joined the party. But in place of simplicity, we now have plenty more choice and innovation when it comes to creating manicures that look great and last the distance.

However, to clear up any confusion, we have everything you need to know about BIAB nails below…

What is BIAB?

The top line: In a nutshell, BIAB is a manicure that’s gentler than acrylic, but thicker than regular nail polish and gel polish. The protective shell it creates over nails is designed to encourage natural nail growth and strength underneath, which is why it’s been fan-girled across the internet for helping to achieve longer natural nails. It can also be used to infill nails, without the whole mani being removed and it be used to sculpt extensions on the end of your nails for extra length.

While some fans are still catching on, the formula actually launched in 2015 under vegan nail brand, The Gel Bottle, which was created by Brighton-based founder and professional nail technician, Daisy Kalnina. These days the next-gen formula is everywhere you look. In under a decade, it’s built up an A-list following, with JLo, Dua Lipa and Kim Kardashian all opting to wear BIAB. Meanwhile, the hashtag #biab has over 480 million views on TikTok with users sharing their nail journey and try-ons.

As for how it differs from the formulas used by previous manis? We asked Giorgia Cappella, head educator at The Gel Bottle to talk us through the details. For starters, BIAB is a professional-only soak-off soft-gel “specifically formulated to be used as an overlay on the natural nail,” explains Giorgia.

“It was created to provide extra strength and protection against breakages, allowing customers to grow their nails to new lengths,” confirms Giorgia. In terms of appearance, it looks similar to gels and shellac, creating a smooth shiny, manicured finish, but the application process looks a little different.

How is BIAB applied?

Prep

Your manicurist will start by prepping the nails (with filing, buffing and cuticle work) and removing any residue on the nail with pure acetone.

Base

The majority of our BIAB colours can be applied to the natural nail but there are some that differ. Lighter shades like Clear BIAB, White BIAB and Milky BIAB require a coat of Rubber Base Coat, while the brand’s HEMA-Free BIABs require a coat of HEMA-Free Bond Base. These are then cured like a normal gel base on a low heat mode.

BIAB

Here’s where things start looking a bit different. Rather than traditional-looking liquid polish, the BIAB nail colours come in thicker gels. Rather than a thin coat of your nail colour of choice applied over the nail, your manicurist will apply a thick bead of BIAB, spreading it side to side and dragging the soft gel away from the cuticle. You can choose a natural colour and use BIAB as your base before following with a gel colour on top. Or you can choose from BIABs wide range of colours and make this step your colour coat. Your manicurist will work to avoid creating a thick build-up around the free edge and cuticle, then seal the free edge. You can do this step twice if you want a more opaque finish, building and curing one nail at a time.

Refine and buff (optional)

Next your manicurist will wipe each nail with alcohol to remove any stickiness, then they may refine the finish of the polish by filing it. This step is crucial for achieving a smooth, even surface before applying your chosen top coat. Your manicurist will remove any dust with a duster brush before applying the final colour you want.

Extras

Once you’ve got the base, you can go in on top with nail art, or if you’re just using the BIAB as a base, you can apply any regular gel shade you like on top, then finish with a thin layer of top coat.