The DM:

Dear derm,

I only get hyperpigmentation during the summer months – what can I do to avoid it?
Samantha R

The Derm:

Dr Derrick Phillips, Consultant Dermatologist at OneWelbeck.

The Diagnosis:

Dear Samantha,

Hyperpigmentation is a condition where certain areas of the skin become darker than others. It’s caused by an overproduction of melanin, which is the pigment that is responsible for giving skin its colour. The excess pigmentation that develops in the epidermis creates an uneven skin tone.

Hyperpigmentation can appear as freckles, sunspots, or larger brown patches affecting sun-exposed areas such as the face, forearms and the back of the hands.

Here’s what you need to know…

What causes hyperpigmentation?

Hyperpigmentation can affect people of any age, but it is more common in skin of colour. This is because the pigment-producing cells in darker skin are more reactive and will produce melanin in response to inflammation, injury or UV exposure.

Hyperpigmentation can occur throughout the year, but it is more common in the summer due to high levels of UVA, UVB and blue light, which stimulate melanocytes to produce melanin; more time spent outdoors, sunny holidays and poor compliance with application of sunscreen and general sun protective measures.

How can I prevent hyperpigmentation in the summer?

Protection from the sun’s rays is the cornerstone of hyperpigmentation prevention. Applying a broad-spectrum SPF 50 sunscreen is vital in all weathers. Avoiding sun exposure during the peak hours of the day, as well as using additional protective measures such as hats and sunglasses is also advisable. Hyperpigmentation can be treated by incorporating ingredients into your routine that stop the production of melanin and encourage gentle exfoliation of the skin.

Ingredients to consider

Niacinamide

Niacinamide is an effective treatment for all forms of hyperpigmentation as it has anti-inflammatory properties, and prevents the transfer of melanin into the skin, helping to fade dark marks with continued use.

Vitamin C

Vitamin C is an antioxidant that can help to brighten the skin by counteracting the effects of free radicals generated by pollution and UV rays, and by suppressing the enzyme tyrosinase which plays a pivotal role in the production of melanin.

Retinoids

Retinoids such as tretinoin (which needs to be prescribed) can help to increase cell turnover, and suppress the enzyme tyrosinase, helping to gradually fade dark patches.

AHAs

Gentle exfoliants like glycolic acid can help to fade dark marks by removing dead skin cells and superficial pigment with repeated use.

Derm-recommended treatments

The Vichy Liftactiv 16% Pure Vitamin C Brightening Serum is a great product for treating hyperpigmentation. It brightens the skin and stimulates collagen production, helping to fade dark marks and improve skin texture with continued use.

Another product that should be incorporated into your hyperpigmentation skincare routine is the Crystal Retinal 1 Serum by Medik8. It has been formulated with Retinaldehyde, which works up to 11 times faster than retinol, reducing pigmentation and evening out the skin tone.

SkinCeuticals’ Glycolic Renewal Cleanser Gel gently exfoliates the skin, improving skin texture and tone without causing irritation.

The Eucerin Anti-Pigment Dual Face Serum for Pigmentation & Dark Spots is another great product for treating hyperpigmentation. The formulation includes Thiamidol®, Eucerin’s patented anti-pigment ingredient,t which tackles hyperpigmentation at its root. It is suitable for all skin types and can easily be incorporated into any routine after cleansing.

Got a skin question for our derms? Drop us a DM at @glamouruk.