Navigating a skincare routine can be hard when you’re a novice. Toner, hyaluronic acid and retinol, can all feel daunting if you’re not sure how to use them. Even seemingly straightforward tasks like how to wash your face correctly, can be more involved than you might think.

Before you know it, your routine is up to 10 different steps, not knowing whether or not you’re helping or hindering. Fear not, we’ve consulted an expert – Dr Beibei Du-Harpur, dermatologist and scientific engagement lead at The Skin Diary – to help simplify using toner in your skincare routine.

What is toner?

“Toners vary quite dramatically in their intended use; what they have in common is their consistency as they tend to be lightweight and water-based,” explains Dr Beibei. “More recently, milky toners have become quite popular too.”

With a variety of different uses – including exfoliating, soothing, hydrating, smoothing, brightening – “typically a toner is used after cleansing and before moisturising,” she continues. “They can also be used to prep the skin prior to your next step, as well as balancing the skin’s pH level.”

What does toner do for your skin?

Toners have a bevy of benefits, but what do they actually do to your skin when applied? “Toners aimed at exfoliating or reducing oil on the skin can contain hydroxy acids (HAs),” explains Dr Beibei. “They can also restore pH balance, particularly after cleansing which can disrupt your natural pH level. This keeps your skin barrier healthy and reduces dryness.”

Hydrating toners on the other hand may contain hyaluronic acid or glycerin, which draw moisture into the skin. “This can refine and minimise the appearance of pores, though it cannot get rid of them,” says Dr Beibei.

Is toner necessary in my skincare routine?

While toners can be a great addition to your skincare routine, offering extra exfoliation or hydration, they’re not an essential step. “If you have a skin concern that is addressed by a toner and enjoy using them in a routine, they are absolutely fine to include,” says Dr BeiBei.

Determining what skin concerns you’d like to address is a good starting point before integrating toners into your skincare routine. “If you are looking for a deeper clean to help remove leftover makeup or if your skin feels tight or dry after cleansing, a hydrating toner can help restore moisture,” says Dr Beibei. “To treat clogged pores, you could try an exfoliating toner with salicylic acid or glycolic acid. If you suffer with redness or sensitivity, you could try a calming toner with aloe or centella asiatica.”

As always, try not to add too many new products into your skincare routine at once – one at a time is recommended – and make sure you’re giving your new additions enough time to work their magic. This can be anywhere from six to 12 weeks, so patience is key!

How much toner should I use?

As there are different types of toner, with different uses, Dr Beibei advises following the instructions of the toner you’ve chosen to add to your skincare routine. “Exfoliating acid toners will usually be applied sparingly with a cotton pad, ensuring not to soak the pad entirely but applying to the centre,” she says. “Hydrating toners can be patted directly onto skin with your fingers (usually the size of a 50p coin sitting in your palms will suffice).”

How often should I use toner?

This can vary depending on what other types of products you’re using in your skincare routine. As a rule of thumb, Dr Beibei says to exercise caution – especially if you’re using active ingredients like retinol or vitamin C. “Generally, exfoliating twice a week is sufficient as overuse can cause irritation and dryness,” she says. “For hydrating toners, you can generally use these twice daily (morning and evening).

Derm-recommended products

Toner for oily or acne-prone skin

“For oily or acne-prone skin, I like IsnTree Chestnut BHA 2% Clear Liquid or Skin Rocks The Control Acid,” recommends Dr BeiBei. “These contain beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), which are oil-soluble exfoliants and are great for helping the cells inside your pores to shed. They also reduce oil production and help to reduce blocked pores, which can lead to acne breakouts.”

Toner for sensitive skin

“For sensitive skin, I would recommend a hydrating toner such as Aestura AtoBarrier Hydro Essence,” says Dr Beibei. “This is a K-beauty brand that is focused on barrier health and ceramides. K-beauty is renowned for its lightweight textures that support the skin barrier, and ‘essences’ are a category within K-beauty that are essentially hydrating toners.”