Among skincare enthusiasts, hyaluronic acid is about as well-known as ingredients get. While a couple of decades ago it was perhaps only on the radar of those who were really in the know about skin, now hyaluronic acid – or HA, to use its nickname – is known by even those with only a vague amount of skincare knowledge.
Alongside the best cleansers and best moisturisers, products like the best hyaluronic acid serums are well-known for being a staple in skincare routines around the world – and are beloved by skin experts, beauty editors and skinfluencers alike. But aside from their popularity, what you may not be so clear on is what they actually do and the benefits of including one in your own skincare routine.
Which is exactly why we’re here to give you a run-down of the many benefits of hyaluronic acid for skin. Backed by the insights of a consultant dermatologist – AKA one of the most qualified skin experts out there – here’s what you need to know about building your own hyaluronic acid skincare routine for the best results. Plus, should you be in the market for one, we’ve included some product recommendations along the way to help you pick out a new HA serum and reap those benefits. Let’s dive in to them, shall we?
What is a HA serum?
First things first, let’s get you clear on what a HA serum actually is. “Hyaluronic acid is a naturally-occurring sugar molecule in our skin that binds to water, providing hydration and a plumping effect,” explains consultant dermatologist Professor Firas Al-Niaimi. One of its most often touted benefits is the fact that it can hold up to 1,000 times its own weight in water – which is great news for our skin. Working to support our skin’s natural levels, “A hyaluronic acid serum contains this molecule and delivers moisturising, hydrating and skin-plumping benefits,” Professor Al-Niaimi adds. So far, so good.
Is it good to use HA serum daily?
Yes, your HA hydrating serum can be used daily, both morning and night. Unlike exfoliating acids or more potent activities, experts agree that because HA is such a gentle ingredient, there is generally no major risk of irritation from using it in your skincare routine (though it’s always worth doing a patch test before using any new skincare ingredient or product, particularly if you have sensitive skin. A hyaluronic acid facial serum should be applied after cleansing and before moisturiser and, in the case of a morning skincare routine, your best facial sunscreen.
Which is better, vitamin C or HA?
It’s quite common to wonder if certain skincare ingredients are “better” than others when thinking about which ones to prioritise in your regime. But it really depends on what you’re hoping to achieve – for example, skin hydration versus boosting its radiance. As such, comparing HA and vitamin C is a bit like comparing apples and oranges. “They are quite different in their functions and mechanisms of action,” Professor Al-Niaimi confirms.
While hyaluronic acid’s main purpose in skincare is all about hydration, “Vitamin C primarily offers protective, antioxidant benefits by neutralising reactive oxygen species, which are generated by factors such as UV exposure, smoking, and pollution,” Professor Al-Niaimi continues. “While these two substances may have some overlapping effects, particularly in their support of skin health, they are not interchangeable and serve distinct roles.” In fact, you can use one of the best vitamin C serums alongside your hyaluronic acid serum, or even seek out a product that’s formulated with both.
What are the disadvantages of HA?
Here’s the good news: HA comes with very few disadvantages when applied topically to our skin. “Hyaluronic acid is generally very well-tolerated, widely used and suitable for nearly all skin types, due to its excellent hydrating properties; it has minimal drawbacks,” explains Professor Al-Niaimi.
That said, there’s no such thing as a “does it all” skincare ingredient, and there are areas in which it won’t excel. “However, in cases of very dry skin or conditions like dermatitis, eczema, or severe barrier dysfunction, hyaluronic acid alone may not provide sufficient hydration,” Professor Al-Niaimi points out. In these cases, you’ll also want to look to sensitive skin-friendly creams that support the skin barrier, or one of the best moisturisers for dry skin.
Ahead, the benefits of hyaluronic acid, explained.
1. Hydration
By far and away the biggest and most talked-about benefit of HA for the skin – and the one for which it is most famous – is its ability to deeply hydrate. As Professor Al-Niaimi tells us, “Hyaluronic acid not only hydrates the skin, but also acts at a cellular level through its interaction with CD44 receptors” – which play a vital role in our skin function and, therefore, its overall health.
“Additionally, hyaluronic acid helps reduce transepidermal water loss and increases the skin’s ability to retain moisture,” Professor Al-Niaimi adds. And better hydration means reduced signs of dehydration in our skin, such as fine lines and dullness.
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2. It has a plumping effect on the skin
Another benefit of hyaluronic acid is its ability to hydrate different layers of our skin, which in turn can give it a plumper appearance. Professor Al-Niaimi also notes that different molecular weights of hyaluronic acid have different benefits. “High molecular weight hyaluronic acid primarily provides surface hydration, helping to keep the skin moisturised,” he tells us.
Meanwhile, “Low molecular weight HA penetrates deeper into the skin and has more of a stimulatory effect, especially through its action on CD44 receptors.” Serums that combine both high and low molecular weights of hyaluronic acid can deliver both surface level hydration and those deeper skin benefits, such as plumping the skin. If you really want to reap multiple benefits of hyaluronic acid, it’s a good idea to ensure a serum is formulated with multiple molecular weights.
3. It helps with our skin’s barrier function
Our skin barrier helps our skin to maintain adequate moisture and keep harmful stuff out, so it’s important for it to function well – and HA can help in that department. “Improving skin hydration helps reduce transepidermal water loss, which in turn enhances the skin’s natural barrier function,” confirms Professor Al-Niaimi.
4. It supports the skin’s collagen production
It’s not just an excellent hydrator; according to Professor Al-Niaimi, hyaluronic acid also stimulates “improved fibroblast activity, which supports collagen production” – the substance that supports our skin to give it a plumper look. Another great reason to have HA in our skincare routines.
5. It helps to soothe and calm the skin
Though we primarily think of HA serums for their hydrating and plumping skin benefits, they can even contribute to reduced irritation in the skin. “When transepidermal water loss is minimised, it supports the process of keratinisation (the development of the skin’s protective outer layer) and leads to a reduction in inflammatory markers,” says Professor Al-Niaimi. “This helps decrease skin sensitivity and the sensation of irritation.”
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