There are many striking antique Jewels coming up for Auction this Autumn. This month, the magnificent Airlie Tiara is among the Jewels of the late Countess of Airlie coming on the market in Lyon & Turnbull’s London Jewellery Sale on October 22nd, which we were graciously able to view earlier this week!
We have been researching the jewellery of Virginia Fortune Ryan Ogilvy, the late Dowager Countess of Airlie for several years so it was delight to see the collection intact before it goes up for Auction!
Verdura Diamond Unicorn Brooch
Estimate: £2,000 – £3,000
From the Estate of Virginia Fortune Ryan Ogilvy, Dowager Countess of Airlie
A Verdura Diamond Unicorn Brooch, the head of the unicorn carved of bone, issuing forth from a circular cabochon turquoise crown, with a pear-shaped diamond fringe, the horn set with brilliant-cut diamonds and a similarly-cut diamond flower grasped in the mouth.
Margaret (Nin) and Maud (Momo) Kahn (Virginia Ogilvy’s mother and aunt), were friends of Duke Fulco di Verdura. The three would have likely met while summering in Venice in 1923 and remained friends. The Kahn sisters, being amongst the epitome of New World glamour were there mingling with the young generation of Old World aristocrats, such as the Duke.
It appears that their friendships continued for decades and the young Virginia Ryan, Margaret’s daughter, also befriended Fulco. Fulco was famous for never letting clients into his studio. It is said that when an important client would appear at his atelier, he would shout out “Tell them I’m dead!” so as to avoid having to meet them. In Verdura; The Life and Work of a Master Jeweler, Patricia Corbett writes “Nin Ryan’s daughter Ginn (Virginia Ryan), who had special permission to visit Fulco on her way home after school, was one of the few people allowed to watch him work.”
“He’d put a baroque pearl onto a sheet of heavy tracing paper, and draw around it very quickly – a head, then a tail. It would become a camel, then he’d move the pearl and do a triton, followed by a swan, and finally, something completely different, like a mermaid. Then he’d set little stones all around.” See page 144.
The Countess’s Verdura unicorn brooch (lot 1) is illustrated in Corbett, Patricia, Verdura; The Life and Work of a Master Jeweler, Thames & Hudson, London, 2002, page 145. Corbett discusses that the inspiration for Verdura’s unicorns, came surprisingly not from heraldic iconography, but were “patterned after the robust folk carvings on early American carousels”.
Verdura Pearl, Emerald and Diamond Dove Brooch
Estimate: £2,000 – £3,000
A Verdura Pearl, Emerald and Diamond Dove Brooch realistically modelled as a dove in flight, its body formed of a 13.4mm pearl, holding a single-cut diamond and circular-cut emerald sprig.
Pearl and Diamond Multi-Strand Bracelet
Estimate: £1,000 – £1,500
A cultured pearl and diamond multi-strand bracelet, the five strands of 5.8-6.6mm cultured pearls, to a rectangular clasp set with 7.8mm pearls, brilliant and single-cut diamonds.
Pearl Choker with a Diamond Clasp / Brooch
Estimate: £4,000 – £6,000
A multi-strand pearl choker, with a mid 19th century diamond clasp / brooch, the necklace formed of multiple strands of 5.0-6.9mm cultured pearls, with single-cut diamond bars, to a detachable mid 19th century old brilliant and cushion-shaped diamonds diamond clasp.
This necklace appears to have been one of the Dowager Countess’ favourites to wear along with the Airlie Tiara. On nearly every occasion where the she wore the Airlie Tiara, she did so also wearing this necklace, and also very frequently lot 5, the detachable mabé pearl and diamond earrings.
Mabé Pearl and Diamond Pendant Earclips
Estimate: £2,000 – £3,000
A pair of mabé pearl and diamond pendant earclips, circa 1955, ach stylised wisteria tendril set with mabé pearls and brilliant and single-cut diamonds, the lower drops detachable,
Fabergé Enamel and Diamond Heart Pendant
Estimate: £500 – £700
An enamel and diamond heart pendant, the royal blue enamel heart pendant, adorned with scrolling lines of brilliant-cut diamonds, to a hinged bale, signed Fabergé.
Shell Compact
Estimate: £700 – £900
A shell compact, the orange lion’s paw scallop shell, encased in a polished frame, with an oval carnelian pushpiece, and an internal compartment.
By family repute, this compact was made by Verdura.
Gold, Coral, Turquoise and Shell Necklace
Estimate: £100 – £200
A gold, coral, turquoise and shell necklace, the two stands of coral, corallium rubrum, beads, centrally featuring a large seashell with an 18 carat gold wire drop suspending a coral and turquoise polished bead fringe.
Citrine Bee Brooches
Estimate: £1,000 – £1,500
A set of citrine bee brooches, each stylised bumblebee set with a circular cabochon citrine thorax, with calibré-cut citrines to the abdomen and wings, and circular cabochon ruby eyes.
Fabergé Nephrite and Ruby Objet
Estimate: £10,000 – £15,000
A Fabergé Nephrite and Ruby Objet, circa 1900, originally a carved nephrite cane handle, decorated with realistically formed four-leaf clovers, each inset with a circular cabochon ruby, to a later polished blade, workmaster’s marks for Michael Perchin, later converted to a paper knife.
Michael Perchin (1860-1903), sometimes spelt “Mikhail Perkhim”, became Carl Fabergé’s second workmaster at the age of just 26 in 1886.
During his time as workmaster he oversaw the creation of numerous Imperial Eggs created for Emperor Nicholas II. Notably in 1902, Perchin created the “Clover Egg” an Imperial Egg decorated with clover leaves made of plique-à-jour enamel, diamonds and gold. The design of those clover leaves mirror the applied clovers on this letter opener. Following his untimely death in 1903, Perchin was succeeded by Henrick Wigström.
Van Cleef & Arpels Case
Estimate: £4,500 – £5,500
A Van Cleef & Arpels mid 20th century case of elongated rectangular outline, cross-hatch interwoven design throughout, signed Van Cleef & Arpels NY.
Cartier Cigarette Case
Estimate: £3,000 – £5,000
An enamel Cartier cigarette case, circa 1925, the 18 carat gold case, decorated with a white and black enamel geometric pattern, to a baguette and single-cut diamond-set push piece, signed Cartier Made in France.
Art Deco Diamond-Set Vanity Case
Estimate: £1,000 – £1,500
An Art Deco Diamond-Set Vanity Case, circa 1925, the lid of the onyx case set with the rose-cut diamond initials “AKW”, with a single-cut diamond push piece, opening to reveal a mirror and two internal compartments, the lids finely engraved and with rose-cut diamond tabs.
Likely a bespoke commission for Adelaide “Addie” Wolff Kahn (1875-1949) grandmother to Virginia Fortune Ryan, Dowager Countess of Airlie.
Mrs Adelaide Kahn was the wife of the prominent New York financier Otto H. Kahn (1867-1934). Mrs Kahn was a leading figure in New York society and an avid collector and patron of the Arts, including being the Director of the Metropolitan Opera Association and President and Director of the Manhattan School of Music. She was also active in numerous philanthropic endeavours.
This case bears the French poinçon de fabricant (or maker’s mark) of the workshop Holl who were suppliers to Cartier. Although unsigned for Cartier, this example represents the quality and craftsmanship of Cartier boxes created at the time. The personalisation and simplicity of design indicate it was likely a specially commissioned work.
The Airlie Tiara
Estimate: £50,000 – £70,000
A late 19th century pearl and diamond tiara, set throughout with cushion-shaped, old brilliant and rose-cut diamonds, the pierced tapered form decorated with daisies, each centrally featuring a pearl, with cushion-shaped diamond ivy leaves, adorned by pearls and clovers across the crest, coming to a central apex with natural pearl.
The Airlie Tiara was made towards the end of the 19th century and was first worn by Mabell, Countess of Airlie. In 1901 she was made Lady of the Bedchamber to the then Princess of Wales, later to become Queen Mary. Queen Mary had a particularly notable jewellery collection, including several significant tiaras and diadems. Some of which were inherited, others she commissioned, including from Garrard, the Crown Jewellers.
The presence of daisies and ivy in this tiara, accompanied by pearls, could suggest a gift for a bride. In the ‘Language of Flowers’, a daisy represents innocence, loyal love and purity while ivy is believed to be “an aid to love”. In society, the first official time a woman would wear a tiara is on her wedding day, an English tradition with roots back to the end of the 15th century.
Latterly the Airlie Tiara was regularly seen worn by Mabell’s granddaughter-in-law, Virginia Fortune Ryan Ogilvy, Countess of Airlie, in particular in her role as Lady of the Bedchamber to Queen Elizabeth II. Virginia Ogilvy had the unique distinction of being the first ever American-born Lady in Waiting to a British monarch. She held this role from 1973 until the death of Queen Elizabeth in 2022.
The Airlie Tiara was worn with a high degree of regularity. It could be seen at numerous State Openings of Parliament, official overseas visits, State Banquets and Gala Receptions at Windsor Castle and Buckingham Palace, amongst other high profile events.
Thank You to Sarah and the team at Lyon & Turnbull for inviting us to view the Airlie Tiara and the Jewels going up for Auction!
Sotheby’s Noble & Private Collections | 5 December 2024
Phillips Geneva Jewels | 11 November 2024
Christie’s Magnificent Jewels | 12 November 2024
Sotheby’s Royal & Noble Jewels | 13 November 2024
Sotheby’s Important Jewels | 16 November 2024
Christie’s Jewels | 20 November 2024
Girls of Great Britain and Ireland Tiara
Vladimir Tiara
Queen Alexandra’s Kokoshnik Tiara
Belgian Sapphire Tiara
Burmese Ruby Tiara
Brazilian Aquamarine Tiara
Queen Mary’s Fringe Tiara
Queen Mary’s Lover’s Knot Tiara
Queen Victoria’s Oriental Circlet Tiara
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