I first arrived in Istanbul by accident – on my own, after a missed connection and a night with nowhere to stay – and a city I never meant to linger in ended up pulling me in more deeply than I expected. Part ancient, part fiercely modern, stretched across two continents and threaded with water, it has a way of pulling you back. Each return has revealed a different mood – a shift in the food scene, a new wave of design-led hotels, entire neighbourhoods changing tempo. What hasn’t changed is the magnetism: the call to prayer drifting across the Bosphorus, the way the light shifts over the water, the feeling that life here moves at its own pulse.

Courtesty of Claire Singer

Courtesty of Claire Singer

For a city that spans millennia, Istanbul manages to feel startlingly current. The new waterfront development at Galataport has turned the Karaköy shoreline into something quietly elegant: a sweep of contemporary architecture, open-air restaurants, galleries and boutiques that have made this stretch one of the most stylish places in the world to shop. From here you can drift up to the Galata Tower, cross to the Asian side by ferry, or walk into the criss-cross of old streets that give Istanbul its texture.

Where to stay

Istanbul’s hotel scene has transformed in the past few years, and the city now has a cluster of genuinely exceptional places to sleep.

The Peninsula Istanbul

The city’s new grande dame, set directly on the water at Galataport. It feels immaculate without being ostentatious — acres of marble, a world-class spa and a truffle burger to die for — and is one of the best-positioned hotels for exploring on foot, whether you’re heading into Karaköy, over to Beşiktaş or into the Old City.

The Ritz-Carlton Istanbul

A confident base above Beşiktaş, with sweeping Bosphorus views and Nobu downstairs for Black Cod and lychee martinis. It’s the kind of place where everything simply works — polished, warm, and brilliantly located for window-shopping in Nişantaşı (Istanbul’s answer to Bond Street) and the waterfront.

Shangri-La Bosphorus

Sleek comfort right on the shoreline. The rooms look straight over the ferries as they cross the strait, and the hotel’s traditional hammam is one of its best-kept secrets. You’re within an easy walk of Beşiktaş’s meyhanes and the fish market, but can retreat instantly to calm.

Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at the Bosphorus

Old-world elegance on a sublimely-positioned waterfront estate. Exceptional food, superlative service, and a grand piano in the lobby that sets the tone. It’s classical Istanbul — calm, generous, beautifully run. Order a perfectly made martini in the Assouline Bar and settle in with a copy of The Grand Bazaar — a small ritual that deepens the hotel’s sense of place.

What to see

If it’s your first time, the Old City is non-negotiable: the Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, Basilica Cistern and the Grand Bazaar still carry the architectural and emotional weight of centuries. But the magic of Istanbul lies in wandering beyond the obvious.

Walk the Bosphorus waterfront from Beşiktaş towards Dolmabahçe and watch the ferries trace diagonal paths across the water. Cross to the Asian side at sunset and step into Kadıköy’s bookshops and coffee bars. Or head to Balat for its steep, colourful streets and old Armenian and Greek houses. Every neighbourhood feels like a different city.

If you’re looking for a restorative moment, book the beautifully restored Kılıç Ali Paşa Hamamı in Karaköy — a serene architectural masterpiece designed by Sinan in the 16th century and now one of the most stylish traditional hammams in Istanbul.