I’m sitting outside a shepherd’s house in the Lattari Mountains, nibbling on bread, cheese, fresh tomatoes, and chestnut honey. A pig circles the table while two border collies half-heartedly try to herd it back to its pen. Below me, the Tyrrhenian Sea stretches endlessly, its blue surface sparkling in the sunlight as the coastline fades towards Capri and the Li Galli islands. Up here, high above the pastel buildings and beaches, the frantic energy of the coast in summer feels like a distant memory.

Casa Angelina, Enrico Constantini

Famed for its glamour and breathtaking cliffside views, the Amalfi Coast naturally draws crowds. During peak season, visitors flock here in search of a slice of la dolce vita, vying for the perfect photograph as ferries and coaches wind their way through narrow coastal roads, often requiring a careful dance to pass. Beyond the views, travellers come to experience the history woven through every cliffside village, from ancient cathedrals and centuries-old villas to colourful buildings stacked dramatically along the coast.

Casa Angelina

Courtesy of Esohe Ebohon

Casa Angelina

Courtesy of Esohe Ebohon

I’ve always been willing to trade perfect weather for fewer crowds, and a visit in early October proved ideal. Flying into Salerno, a newer, quieter alternative to Naples airport, I arrived just after sunset. The drive followed the coastline, winding along cliffs that plunged into the Tyrrhenian Sea. Praiano, where my hotel, Casa Angelina, is located, feels worlds away from its busier, more touristy neighbours. The town is smaller, quieter, and far less commercialised, the kind of place that offers a more authentic, relaxed experience.

I spent some time wandering Praiano’s steep lanes, draped in bougainvillaea, where whitewashed houses seem to cascade down the cliffs. At the heart of the town stands the Church of San Gennaro, its colourful majolica-tiled dome visible from almost anywhere. Stepping inside, I was met with an elaborately decorated interior: golden accents, a detailed fresco, and patterned marble floors so intricate, like a painting beneath my feet, they made me pause and take it all in. Around Praiano, bursts of contemporary street art mounted on old stone walls and stairways offered unexpected flashes of colour, giving the town a creative edge. Small boutiques sell handmade sandals, ceramics, and linen pieces. Locals greet one another in the street, and there’s room to slow down and hear the sea.

Casa Angelina

Courtesy of Esohe Ebohon

Courtesy of Esohe Ebohon

Returning to Casa Angelina after a day of exploring offered a welcome sense of calm. Sitting above the sea, the hotel resembled a whitewashed mansion in the hills, its fifteen shades of white a playful nod to minimalist elegance and a marked contrast to the usual opulence one comes to expect from Italian villas. Open terraces and sweeping views provided a soothing contrast to the busy energy of the coast below. With just 36 rooms and suites, it strikes a balance between intimacy and expansiveness. Located between Amalfi and Positano, it offers easy access to the coast while remaining a quiet retreat.

Courtesy of Esohe Ebohon

Courtesy of Esohe Ebohon

Every corner of the hotel, from its curated collection of 87 artworks, including bespoke Murano glass pieces, to the stylish reads in the library and the clean, whitewashed interiors, felt deliberate and personal. I found myself slowing down naturally, drawn to the quiet moments that only appear when the view is this good. The design is understated but thoughtful: a discreet reception sets a calm tone from the moment you arrive, and the team is warm and attentive without ever hovering. I’d wander past the chic bar and open kitchen to Seascape, the hotel’s casual dining restaurant, or settle outside for lunch (because, really, how could you not?) overlooking the pool and the endless blue below. On the fourth floor, the Michelin-starred Un Piano Nel Cielo offered a different kind of experience with multi-course dinners served against a dramatic backdrop of cliffs and twilight. Days here moved slowly, in the best way. I’d stop at the gelato cart out front for something sweet, a playful reminder that luxury isn’t always about excess; it can also be about lightness and joy. Casa Angelina’s beauty lies in that balance: refined yet relaxed, elegant yet unpretentious. Luxury here isn’t loud or showy; it creates a space where all guests feel at ease.

Courtesy of Esohe Ebohon

Courtesy of Esohe Ebohon

When I finally pulled myself away from Casa Angelina and those to-die-for balcony views, I ventured out to explore my surroundings. One cannot come to the Amalfi Coast and skip the Path of the Gods hike, although your legs might not thank you. With local guide Roberto Mansi leading the way, I set off from Praiano. It wasn’t for the faint-hearted; there are roughly 1,900 steps from Praiano before even reaching the main trail, making it a strenuous climb. Along the way, we passed the Convent of San Domenico and paused to spot medicinal herbs and wildflowers, adding unexpected colour and detail to the hike.

Courtesy of Esohe Ebohon

Casa Angelina

The most glamorous way to see the Amalfi Coast is undoubtedly from the water, so I was delighted to board Lady Angelina, one of three boats owned by Casa Angelina. Captain Giampiero Irace steered us along the coastline, where Positano and Priano looked almost theatrical, their pastel buildings tiny against the cliffs. We stopped for an onboard picnic of local cheese, bread, and fruit, made extraordinary by the views, and I couldn’t resist a swim in the pristine water.