Some places reveal themselves slowly. The drive up to Château Saint-Martin & Spa climbs high above the Côte d’Azur, winding through olive groves and forest. With each turn, the landscape shifts – rocky outcrops give way to wildflower meadows, and that honeyed light begins to work its spell. No wonder Matisse and Chagall set up shop nearby.

The Oetker Collection is known for its heavy-hitter hotels – Le Bristol in Paris, Eden Rock in Antibes – but this one, perched just outside Vence, had somehow slipped under my radar, which only added to its quiet appeal. Originally a 12th-century Knights Templar stronghold, the château has been everything from a military fortress to a monastic retreat to, now, a discreet luxury hideaway.

Courtesy of Oetker Collection

Set in jasmine-laced gardens with panoramic views from the mountains to the Med, it strikes a rare balance: polished but peaceful, elegant without the starch. The buildings are classic Provençal in that golden, sun-drenched way. Climbing roses soften the façades, and gravel paths crunch underfoot. My room overlooked a jigsaw of terracotta rooftops and silvery olive groves, with a little terrace just made for early-evening aperitifs and long, lazy breakfasts.

Courtesy of Claire Singer

Courtesy of Claire Singer

Sitting there, you start to understand why writers and painters lost hours to this light. D.H. Lawrence spent his final years nearby in Vence, drawn by the clean air and landscape; he wrote poems and letters here, wrestling with life and mortality. Just down the road in Saint-Paul-de-Vence, James Baldwin crafted essays and novels that would shape culture and conscience, while the likes of Matisse and Chagall painted light as if it were a language of its own. It’s the kind of place where, glass of rosé in hand, you finally run out of excuses not to start that book you’ve been putting off for years..

The restaurant, Le Saint-Martin, has two Michelin stars, though you wouldn’t know it from the mood, which is more Riviera than reverence. Dinner began with a glass of something cold and crisp on the terrace. As the sun set and the temperature dipped, staff appeared with soft, wooden shawls, allowing us to brave the crisp hillside air in comfort.

The menu leans into its setting: delicate spring vegetables that taste freshly unearthed, Loup de Mer with lemon and thyme, a cheeseboard you’ll dream about later, and honey ice cream paired with Sauternes.